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Other Lives

Other Lives - Photo by ML

Other Lives

— Photo by ML

You could smell the stench as soon as you entered the house. Then, immediately, you saw the filth and chaos. People had lived here until recently, and some of the residents had had pets. A dog had even been left behind for several days until a neighbor was able to let him out.

We had been looking at properties in North Philadelphia when we came across this former boarding house. It was an ordinary 3-story brownstone in a fairly intact city block in a part of town where many buildings are boarded up, burnt out, or torn down often leaving weed strewn empty lots. I had seen a few boarding houses before, but they were all empty. For whatever reason, this house, however, still held some of the belongings of its former residents, and, while walking though the house, I got a glimpse of how life can be when you have little or nothing.

Under the City

Every major city has them: huge, often underground, surreal spaces seemingly created by accident and circumstance rather than thoughtful city planning. I came accross this space on a Saturday afternoon in Philadelphia as I was trying to get to the subway from one of the 15th Street entrances.

It was absolutely surreal — the low ceiling, the dense forest of countless white pillars, the uncomfortable glow of fluorescent light. No sign of life anywhere. Not a single person, no graffiti, no advertising, nothing. Empty. Strange. Accidental left-over space.

- another post from my phone

A Food-Shopping Tour in Philadelphia

Reading Terminal Market - Photo by ML

The Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia

— Photo by ML

Philadelphia is a great city for foodies. Not only is there food everywhere, but there is also all kinds of food from pretty much every region and culture on this planet. More importantly, a lot of it is actually very good. There are top rated restaurants like Le Bec Fin and Parc, and (my personal favorites) Alma de Cuba and Buddakan, which are always safe (although rather expensive) choices. And at the other end of the price spectrum you'll find the ubiquitous food trucks. It's obviously a bit more hit-and-miss here, but many of them will surprise you with fast, simple, and really good food.

Urban Poverty and the Ugly Animal

Strawberry Mansion, Philadelphia - Photos by ML

Strawberry Mansion, Philadelphia

— Photos by ML

Walking through the Strawberry Mansion section in North Philadelphia is quite an experience. You can see hints of a very different world from the past in the ornate row houses and avenues. There are so many details on these brick that call out the amazing craftsmanship from another era. Inside many still have beautiful ceilings, and here and there one can still find the original leaded stained glass panels above the entrance doors. The houses usually have hardwood floors, high ceilings, and stairs with wooden balusters and hand rails...

Stop! This sounds almost like a description of the houses in Philadelphia's Society Hill section? Maybe so, but only because I left out a few details. Society Hill and Strawberry Mansion are both romantic names hinting at a glorious past, and, in terms of geography, they're actually only 4.5 miles apart. But in terms of everything else, they might as well be on different planets.

North Philly

I've been spending a lot of time in North Philly over the last few months, and have gotten to know and understand it a little better. North Philly is many things, but boring it is not.

Many areas are devastated and desperately poor. It has been like this for decades and it's unlikely to change anytime soon. Here entire generations grow up and remain poor. This is a community that defines terms like urban grit and blight.

To the casual eye this is an urban wasteland: dangerous, dirty, and desperate. But look closer and you can also see resourcefulness, ingenuity, hope, and beauty. Just look at the murals, and you will see that this community is also generous, strong, and proud.

North Philly has a lot more to offer than meets the eye.

- another note from my phone